Cardinal RV Club

Am I the only person bothered by the fact that the water heater bypass valve is so inaccesible? On this 30TS, it is located under and behind the kitchen sink on the back side of the water heater. It is blocked off by cabinets to the point that I cannot see it and to operate it I have to blindly feel for it. Am I missing something?

That is so you stay limber and flexible. A no-charge option.

On ours I have to completely remove a bottom drawer on one of the kitchen cabinets to get to the valve. Yea, its a nuisance, but I figure what the heck, the only time I'm going to have to deal with it is when I winterize, and then only if I decide to pump the pink stuff thru the system.

Hello Robert,

Check out the Swan RV Auto winterizing system, the hot water heater uses a 12 volt three-way valve that by-passes by push button and a 12 volt three-way valve at the pump suction going to a 3 gallon antifreeze tank.

Cost about $400 but works great, check out the vidio on this website, you can turn on and off the switches in the vidio and watch the antifreeze flow out the sink. www.centormall.com/Swan_ind/index.html

I built my own system that works close to this one but mine also removes the antifreeze from the lines back to the tank when dewinterizing.

Both on our previous 32CKT and on our new 34QS to get to the by-pass valve you have to remove the square trim cover panel by prying off the screw covers and then removing four screws to get the panel off. My first project on the last trailer and on this one was to go to Lowe's and get matching cabinet hinges and pressure catch. I still skin up my arm getting to the valve but at least all I have to do is open the door to gain access.

Don

Donpop wrote:Both on our previous 32CKT and on our new 34QS to get to the by-pass valve you have to remove the square trim cover panel by prying off the screw covers and then removing four screws to get the panel off. My first project on the last trailer and on this one was to go to Lowe's and get matching cabinet hinges and pressure catch. I still skin up my arm getting to the valve but at least all I have to do is open the door to gain access.

Don

I also have a 34qs, yep it is a pain in the #utt to get to but I simply reach thru the cabinet until I can get my fingers on the valve.........I had the very same thoughts that it is a very poor design layout...have also considered putting hinges and pressure catch on the side panel to gain axcess.

My bypass valve is much easier to reach on my 29WB Lx as I only have to open a door under the referigator but like the rest of you I have to feel for it ( still haven't seen it) as it is about 14 inches from the door opening.

Lets hear ideas where a better location on each unit would be and maybe as a group we could suggest them to FR. Then at least maybe our future members could benefit!

Don

I just asked hubby what he does to winterize, as he had never complained about the contortions you guys are going through to do yours! He says our bypass is accessible inside the sink cabinet door, where I have the trash can. There is a partial wall in there and you can reach it through there. However, he doesn't bypass ours and just blows the whole thing out with the air compressor. I open the faucets one at a time to make sure they are not spitting, while he is blowing out the lines. Then I pour the pink stuff down the drains. That way, there is never any question of there being any of that stuff in our water when we de-winterize. Donna

Yep, ours is easy to get to also but have never used it.

Rob

Rob & Cathy wrote:Yep, ours is easy to get to also but have never used it.

Rob

Yep much eaiser then my last 5er I use this one every winter.