2500 or 3500

[LuvRving]

Hi,

I may be able to get a good deal on a 2018 2500HD diesel so I just may trade my 2012 3500HD diesel. I am towing my 2012 3030RS with the 3500HD and it handles it very well, I love the truck. My question is what would it take to convert the 2500 to a 3500, is it just the number of leaf springs or are there differences in the drive train and front end as well?

Even though the 3500 is 7 years old it only has 16000 km or 10000 miles on it. Maybe I’m crazy to trade it anyway.

Thanks for your input.

Joe

[Don Wilson]

My feelings are that with the 3030 you would be maxed out with the hitch weight with the 2500.
Personally with that few miles I would stay with the 3500. I am still pulling with my 06 3500 with 193,000 miles and will hopefully get 75,000 miles or more out of it.

Don

[jtaylor1920]

The 3030 has a heavy pin, so you’ll have to watch your payload, tire capacity and rear axle weights. It’s possible to tow it with a 3/4 ton, you’ll just need your scale weights.

[EAW]

Assuming the truck you are considering is similar to the one you have with the Crew Cab, Standard Box, SRW, and Duramax; it has a 5th wheel tow rating of 13,500 lbs according to the Trailer Life tow guide. This compares to your current truck capacity of 17,000 lbs.

You may be able to beef up the suspension on the new one but it won't change the official tow rating. If you get into an accident the lawyers, insurance company and possibly law enforcement will use the official tow rating to determine if you are overloaded and contributed to being at fault. Just my opinion.

Unless there is an underlying mechanical issue, I would keep what I have or continue looking for a deal on a 3500.

[dfredendall]

I agree with The others. I would keep the 3500. At 16000 km it is barely broken in, and it is your TLC. Have it polished and you are good as new:)

[LuvRving]

Well, it looks like you have all talked me out of the idea of getting a new truck. I think I was hooked on the thought of the smell of new leather!

So far I have only replaced 2 fuel injectors, one under warranty. That was a $900 job. All 8 glow plugs have been replaced all on a special warranty. A complete brake job cost me $3800 last spring but that the only brake job since I bought the truck. The U-joints were replaced last spring too at $400, that was the cause of the thumping noise mentioned in my previous post. Other than that it’s just been the routine maintenance for lube, oil and filters. So I guess its treated me pretty well. Actually the warranty of 160 K is not up yet but the 5 years has run out. I don’t know what to expect next in terms of any issues given the age or mileage but we will deal with that when it happens.

Thanks for the advice!
Joe in Newfoundland

[Roger]

You're original post said the truck had 16000 km on it. Now it looks like it is 160,000 km. That is a lot of difference. I am not sure that everyone's advice would be the same. You have put way more into the truck than I have on mine with about the same miles but several years older. Give everyone a chance to comment again with the correct mileage. I have known a couple of guys the drove delivering trailers around the country and they typically trade at about 400,000 miles.

[LuvRving]

Sorry for the error! Here are the numbers: my truck has 116,000 km on it which converts to 72,500 miles. The 160,000 km refers to the original warranty on the truck which was 160,000 km or 5 years whichever comes first. My point was that warranty wise I am not close to the 160, 000 mark but the 5 years has run out. The mileage is still low at 7 years since 2012.

Sorry again for the error and the conversion to 10,000 miles rather than 72,500 miles. Road salt really takes its toll on vehicles up here but I’ve kept the rust check to it and it has paid off. By the way, I have to pay $200 per hour for labour at the dealership here, hence the costs for some of the maintenance.

Looking forward to another summer of RVing.

[Big Bird]

X 2

[jacknife]

The only difference between the two is the rear springs. One ton has a helper springs in the rear that's it ! You can go 2 ways . A put a helper spring on , or B put air bags on and you are done . go to a dealer ship and you will see everything else is the same, wheels, brakes, frame identical .

[Big Bird]

The differences you mention are mostly true. The front coils are slightly heavier to balance front-end stability, but do not contribute to the weight issue. As a 2500 driver, I too would go 3500 just for the piece of mind. I pull a 2010 3625 with a max gross of 14,600 and never had an issue. I have air bags.