2008 Chev Duramax 3500

[Jash]

After reading some of the post I thought Id check the power from my truck to the trailer connector. The truck came with a connector in the bumper and also has the cable between the cab and box for a fifth wheel connection. Checking the plug on the bumper it appears I dont have 12 v to the power pin that will go to my trailer. I check under the hood and found a cable taped just below the fuse box. Is this the power cable to powe the pin and has anyone made this connection.


The manual is a little confusing, it says that the brake controler and this power pin are not hooked up from the factory unless you have the integrated brake controler which I have. I know the brake controler works, at least I think it did when I brought the trailer home.

Any help on how to hook up this connection would be helpful.

[Torben]

No jash that plug is for cold weather,you run an extension cord to a 110 v and that heats you engine for easy starts, it's in the duramax section of your owners manual under block heater.

[wild acres]

Hi Jash, in your request for info, you said "it appears that I don't have 12V" Go to the search box and type in "power plug pins" and when that page comes uo on the right side of page it says "jump to page" There is a picture there of the pin locations and what pin does what. Just an idea to make sure your testing the right pin. On some ford's there is a fuze right at the postive post for the "power wire". Don't know about Chevy. Hope this helps. John

[Mike Clay]

The one in your rear bumper is set up and ready to go for towing trailers there is one that is coiled up right behind the drivers side of the cab right by the fuel tank that is there for you to use when you decide where you want to put the plug for towing a 5er. Torben is correct about the one in the front which is coiled up by the passenger side battery that is your cold weather plug in for the engine.

[Jash]

The heater plug is on the right side, this wire is on the driver side under the hood right below the large fuse box. I checked the pin on my plug that should be 12v with my fluke meter, no power.

The wire is red and has a terminal eye. Looks like they tapped it to a harness with some electrical tape.

[Jash]

Here are some pictures of the wire and possible the lug that it should be hook to.





An update, I am going to take it to the dealer but here is the explination.

On the picture of the fuse box, the terminal lug on the left is the trailer brake power, you can see the small 30 amp fuse (pink fuse) on the fuse panel. The fuse on the right is a 40 amp(green fuse). it powers the lug on the right which has no wires connected to it. Now heres the interesting thing, the picture of the cable that is wraped up on the left side of the fuse panel I believe is for the connector in my bumper. Their is also a cable tie wrapped on the right side of the fuse box and it has a label on it, (trailer battery power).

Because its still under warranty Ill take the advise and schedule a vist to the Chev dealer.

[Mike Clay]

Make sure they put the fuse in i know they left the fuse out in a lot of trucks

[Torben]

Your truck is under warranty why don't you go to the dealers service department and talk to them? when ever I have a question that' s where I go.

[Future Fulltimers]

When I purchase my truck there was not a fuse for it in the fusebox. GM saved thousands by not installing it.

[campswithcritters]

You must install a fuse in the trailer power slot in the main underhood fuse box. I've had 3 new Chev trucks and none had a fuse installed from the factory.

[Jash]

If you look at the top picture I believe the pink square fuse closest to the left lug which is for the brake controller. The green fuse which is a 40 amp looks like the one for the right lug. I also decided to move my fifth wheel harness to the rear of the truck bed. It was wrapped up between the cab and box on the truck. This required rerouting the harness to the rear. When I went to reroute the harness I found that during manufacture they had crushed the cable between the truck box and frame just aft of where the cable was coiled up from the factory. It took me about an hour to force it out of the space between the frame and box.

Today Im going to cut open the harness and see if any of the wires were damaged, its amazing how much the cable was flatened out. After reading some posts I decided to mount it on the wall of the box so I could reach it standing behind the truck. Im sure glad I made this choice our my bet is the cable would have chaffed and shorted at some point. Ill send some pictures once I get the new plug mounted.

[Future Fulltimers]

After reading some posts I decided to mount it on the wall of the box so I could reach it standing behind the truck. ...

I was going to do that but I couldn't bring myself to drill into the bed.

[Don Wilson]

Jash,

Since you have a new pickup I would take it back to the dealer and have them replace the whole harness and let Chevy pickup the cost. My theory being as it crushed the one wire where it does not have power through it there are others which were probably damaged as well and most likely will give you problems down the road. JMHO!

Don

[BMullins46]

I have to agree with Don. You paid for a working wire harness and they didn't provide it.
Beside I just don't trust splices.

[Mike Clay]

Take it to the dealer