Questions for rigging my truck

[Big Dog]

Hi everyone I'm back to pick your brains before I screw up to bad. I have been studying and know just enough to be dangerous, so I come to the experts to keep me out of trouble.
To start with I think I want to put some kind of air shocks or something on the truck. I've read about the ride rite setup and the Timbrens which is best. The next item I know nothing about is what is the best hitch. We are going to be full timers so I need somthing that will last. I also want to get an aux fuel tank and need info on whats best. Finally I need information on if I need to put some kind of chip or performance stuff on the engine.
I have more questions but I don't know what they are so will ask more next time. and for Jenny theres only one real Nascar driver Mark Martin go number 6. Steve or Fluf what ever suits you.

[BB_TX]

Is your truck an F250 or F350? SRW or DRW? Standard cab/ext cab/crew cab? Long bed/short bed?

[campswithcritters]

Hi everyone I'm back to pick your brains before I screw up to bad. I have been studying and know just enough to be dangerous, so I come to the experts to keep me out of trouble.
To start with I think I want to put some kind of air shocks or something on the truck. I've read about the ride rite setup and the Timbrens which is best. The next item I know nothing about is what is the best hitch. We are going to be full timers so I need somthing that will last. I also want to get an aux fuel tank and need info on whats best. Finally I need information on if I need to put some kind of chip or performance stuff on the engine.
I have more questions but I don't know what they are so will ask more next time. and for Jenny theres only one real Nascar driver Mark Martin go number 6. Steve or Fluf what ever suits you.

Big Dog, The 37 RL is a heavy trailer. Have you weighed it? The reason I ask is that if you will be going beyond truck Gross Capacity, save up your money and buy a medium duty (which will have all the mods you need) instead of spending it outfitting this one.
That having been said: I'll let the modified suspension guys deal with that and the hitch will depend on the gross weight of the trailer. I love my RBW Lil Rocker (very easy to see if high hitched or not positively locked) but I recommend it only if you have clearance (i.e. long bed or extended pin box) and your trailer will be below 15K lbs.
The aux tank will also eat up a lot of weight when full so count that in too. I use a 70 gal transfer flow, but modified the wiring to my control so I can keep track as it has no gauge. Critterenter I think has an american tank 40 gal which uses the trucks gauge and he burns from the tank of his choice (might be better for you). If you can afford the weight the extra capacity pays off well in the higher taxed states (we check the internet and drive through high prices).
Before considering performance mods add a pyrometer (Exhaust Temp Gauge EGT), a turbo boost gauge, and a transmission temp gauge (if automatic). Performance modifications can be detrimental to other parts of your truck and you will need to monitor it closely.
I'm not trying to be negative, just pointing out realities of a large trailer. I have modified my truck quite a bit and it does it's job well, however when I add up the money spent and hours invested, my next one will be a used medium duty (and I only have a 34TS). We are very close to full timing loaded and only 1000 lbs under GCVWR of my truck.

[jennyt]

We have the Timbrens and Scott likes them. Can't tell you one darned thing technical about them though.

And seeing as you decided to just go on and open that big ole can of worms I'm not going to say anything bad about the #6 - he's one of those that there's nothing bad you can say about him. Too bad most of those are getting older and we aren't getting anything close to replace them Can't say that I have anyone that I could pick right now to cheer for if Bobby were to retire. Scott is a #88 DJ fan, but first and foremost a Ford/RYR fan, so he is waiting to see who the #88 replacement is Hopefully it's someone that is "worthy" of his fanship"

[roughingit]

Not to confuse things too much I will try to stick with the question on engine performance modfications. First I'll say that in stock form the truck will have enough power to pull the RV, but maybe not as easily as you may wish. It may not be the first to the top of the hill or the next stop sign but it will pull it (yes for this discussion I am ignoring the GCWR issue for the most part and just dealing with the question of power, please forgive me). Power up devices such a the edge module, BD, Banks and on and on do work, however, be careful. As mentioned in a previous post the can be a durability down side. If you try to go overboard you can send cylinder pressure beyond design limits causing major engine damage. Another side effect is a rise in exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) which also must be monitored. Since an engine works by using heat energy produced in the combustion process as power increases so will the heat but how this heat is managed is the difference. Some of the more advanced products have built in (normally user adjustable) EGT safeguards which will "defuel or "reduce power enhancement" if the EGT's meet or exceed a given temperature. These safeguards are a good thing and sould maditory if you decide to use a power up device. You must also take into account the additional torque that the driveline (transmission, transfercase, driveshaft, axles etc.) will be subject to with the power up. A few things to look for/consider if you go this route.
1) Don't over do it......don't look for the product that will add 300 hp with just a module, this will only be disaster.
2) Be sure to look for a product with safeguards such EGT safety, trans slip derating
3) Look at going to a free flow large dia. exhaust which will help in managing the EGT issue.
4) Consider a free flowing air intake system.
5) If you're not intercooled, you should be.

As to a medium duty being the cure all, watch out here as well. If all we want to look at is numbers, a M.D. truck doesn't always get it (no I haven't gone nuts). Let me try to breifly explain. While a M.D. will have more suspension, brakes, tire, axle etc. there can be other limiting factors. As far as power goes Many M.D.'s do not offer the same level of horsepower and torque as thier smaller versions. I'm going to use GM as the examples here but this applies to the others as well. If you look at a C5500 with the Duramax you get up to 300 HP and 605 ft/lb. The duramax in a 3500 series is 360 HP and 650 ft/lb. The light duty truck can have a towing capacity of up to 16,700 lbs. The Medium duty C5500 has a GCWR of 26,000 lbs. A C5500 with an aluminum hauler body weighs just over 10,000 lbs leaving you with a "numbers only" capacity of under 16,000 lbs and less power to move a heavier truck. Does this mean the C5500 is less capable than the 3500? which will tow better, stop better or be more stable. While I'm sure many may want to string me up for saying this....number aren't everything. For those inquiring minds that want to know why the C5500 would seem less able based on GCWR......Allison who will be the supplier of just about any M.D. auto trans. puts a 26,000 lb rating on the transmission. Do I see more weight be moved without failure....yes. Not trying to say ignore the numbers, but look at the whole picture.

Fingers are tired I better stop. Sorry I tend to go overboard at times, but I hope you can get something useful out of all this. At least it will probably start a big discusion on safe vs. unsafe and weights

[Mike Clay]

Agree with Randy on this one. Watch out on engine mods (now I will speak for the Dodge trucks.) The 03 and above trucks run hotter for emission control I can hit 1400 degrees empty with the pyro pre turbo if I get on it hard. Start adding fueling boxes with out any way for that extra heat to get out your going to have problems. Plus Dodge anyways builds these trucks at the limit. If you put in more HP you will need to beef up the clutch or tranny (for the auto impaired crowd) Plus if you are towing in high altidudes you will not be able to use all the power anyway.

I have said it many times before for every action there is a reaction with mods and it can get very expensive. Trust me Been there done that.

[Shields]

I think the trick with engine mods is to be careful. Now I put a BD on mine and I love it. But I don't put my foot into the pedal either. Without it I just have a hard time to get to speed, with it I can get up to speed much easier.
I keep the EGT at 1250, take it out of overdrive on hills, and just drive easy.
Tranny, got my fingers crossed, but figure when it goes I will get an aftermarket and pay the bucks. Still got 10k on the warranty.

[Big Dog]

Thanks eveyone for the advice, I hate to have to buy another truck but I don't want a lot of broken parts to play with either. I guess I'm just going to have to tape my head up real tight so it won't explode when I study this a little more.
Scott at least you root for a good car Ford I hated to see Dale leave. I would tell you I've been a fan when Fire Ball Roberts was a driver but then you might think I'm old so I won't tell you that.

[CritterRenter]

If your thinking of an aux tank, check out http://www.auxtank.com/auxtank/home.asp or http://www.transferflow.com/
American Tank is in TX, Transfer Flow is in CA, so it would be closer to you.

[campswithcritters]

Thanks eveyone for the advice, I hate to have to buy another truck but I don't want a lot of broken parts to play with either. I guess I'm just going to have to tape my head up real tight so it won't explode when I study this a little more.
Scott at least you root for a good car Ford I hated to see Dale leave. I would tell you I've been a fan when Fire Ball Roberts was a driver but then you might think I'm old so I won't tell you that.

Being a Ford lover you might look into the F-350 with the tow boss package as it does go up to 26000 lb, which is 3000 more than my current limit.

[Big Dog]

Thanks for all the information. I guess I want more trailer than I have truck. We plan on full timing so want a comfortable home but I guess it wont matter if I cant pull it. So as they say I think its back to the drawing board.
My truck is a sc s/d long bed psd with stick shift 4x4 with 4.10 gears. I was told I can tow a 14,400 lb trailer and the 37rl is listed at 15,500.
Thanks for all the help Steve

[Rob & Cathy]

My truck is a sc s/d long bed psd with stick shift 4x4 with 4.10 gears. I was told I can tow a 14,400 lb trailer and the 37rl is listed at 15,500.

Hi Steve. The max 5th wheel weight of 14400# sounds about right. If the documentation shows the trailer at 15500# that is probably the empty weight. I agree with Bruce that the minimum I would go with is the F350 PSD with the 4.10 rear end and be sure to get the Tow Command option.

Just my two cents.

Rob

[Diesel Dave 04]

My truck is a sc s/d long bed psd with stick shift 4x4 with 4.10 gears. I was told I can tow a 14,400 lb trailer and the 37rl is listed at 15,500.

Hi Steve. The max 5th wheel weight of 14400# sounds about right. If the documentation shows the trailer at 15500# that is probably the empty weight. I agree with Bruce that the minimum I would go with is the F350 PSD with the 4.10 rear end and be sure to get the Tow Command option.

Just my two cents.

Rob

The specks on the 37RL
UVW -12,470
Hitch weight 2,390
GAWR /Axle weight 14,000
GVWR /Total Grose 15,500

[Rob & Cathy]

Steve, when I had my 7.3 diesel I had a Banks stinger kit installed. It made a big difference in climbing the mountains we have around here. However, although I could continue to accelerate up the passes I would have to back down do to EGT. Like mike says for every action there's a reaction.

Rob